ITEM |
NOTES |
SUPPLIER |
Brake (Compensator) |
This sits behind the front
chassis cross-member and needs to be removed to
get at the silentbloc suspension bushes. In
theory it is maintenance free, but after 60
years will benefit from stripping down and
cleaning.
See my video
|
Darren
Watkinson |
Brake (Shoes) |
Replacements may be
obtainable from the club, as can new linings. If
you are just replacing the linings it is
important to use the correct type as the rear
ones are harder than those on the front. Getting
it wrong may lead to imbalance and the rear
brake locking up when braking. Also modern brake
lining material is a bit harder than the
asbestos originals and therefore after fitting
you may need to press the brake pedal more
firmly.
|
Darren
Watkinson |
Carpets |
I have not been able to find
an exact match for the original carpets which
are faded to a caramel colour but originally
were a chocolaty brown (you may find a bit of
the original colour hiding behind the 'rexine'
edging strip round carpet trim panels). |
Woolies Trim |
Dampers |
The L. D. 10 has Luvax-Girling
PR5 lever arm dampers which may suffer from
leaking seals and worn bearings. This will cause
them to become floppy and ineffective and they
must be sent for reconditioning. |
Hartford Shock Absorbers |
Distributor Cap |
The distributor cap (LUCAS
408369 415298 DDB163 44631) is common to a
number of vehicles and there are a number of
suppliers. The cost of the cap is the same from
most but LSM offer free delivery. |
LSM Ltd. |
Grease (500 mile service) |
It is important to use a
water resistant grease that will not wash away.
I use Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease |
Lucas Oil |
Grease (front hub) |
Any thick hub bearing grease
will do. I got mine from the local motor factor |
N/A |
H. T. Leads |
Originals were 7mm rubber.
Modern PVC will work fine but they must be
copper cored.
See my video. |
Green Spark
Plug Company |
Ignition Coil |
The original coil was a L.
O. Model B12. I replaced mine with a Morris
Minor Coil but it lacks the aesthetic appeal of the original |
GS Jones |
Oil (engine) |
The originally specified oil
was a Straight 30 SAE monograde. I use Comma
Classic Oil. You may substitute a more modern
oil such as diesel detergent oil if your engine
is worn or needs a clean out. But you need to
take care and wash the oil filter more
frequently. Check with the club for advice |
Comma Oils |
Oil (gear) |
As with the engine oil, it
is safer to use one formulated for old cars
which will not damage seals or bearings. I use
Millers Oils Classic Gear Oil EP 140 in the steering box and rear axle and Comma SAE 30 in the gearbox |
Millers Oils |
Oil Seals |
Front Hub oil seals part
number Payen C280 are hard to find, but Oil Seal
UK had some in stock.
See my
video |
Oil Seal
UK |
Radiator |
The cooling system is very
effective to the point where it can cope with
losing some of the radiator. This means that
leaking bits of the radiator matrix can be cut
through and soldered off. But I sent mine for a
re-core. |
Hereford Radiators |
Radiator Hose (Top) |
The top hose from an early
Morris Minor (918cc Side Valve Without Water
Pump Fitted) fits perfectly and does not place
strain on the top radiator pipe |
ESM Morris Minor Spares |
Rotor Arm |
The L. D. 10
uses a
Lucas - 408355 R42 ES242 rotor arm.
Replacements are available from the Green Spark
Plug Company via Amazon and EBay but oddly don't
seem to appear on the company's own site |
The Green Spark Plug Company |
Rubber Seals |
Edgeware Motor Rubber and
Trim supply a wide variety of parts |
Edgeware |
Spark Plugs |
I use Champion N5C. They can
stand frequent cleaning, and work well. Set the
gap to 0.020" |
The Green Spark Plug Company |
Suspension Bushes (general) |
I had trouble finding spare
ones and had to make my own from Polyurethane
Rubber.
See my VideoHowever shock absorber drop link eye bushes are available from Meteor Spares |
MB Fibreglass Meteor Spares |
Suspension Bushes (silentbloc) |
These can still be purchased
new. |
David
Beales Engineering |
Steering Column Grommet |
A remanufactured version of
this is on EBay, or you might try to make you
own. Also Derek Sleigh may have them in stock. Darren Watkinson has a fibreglass mould for casting steering column to bulkhead gaiters |
Derek Sleigh |
Temperature Gauge |
The capillary temperature
gauge will develop leaks over time and the metal
bulb will almost certainly twist off if you
remove it from the Water Pump. You can get your
old one repaired by The Gauge Shop. |
The Gauge
Shop |
Tyres |
500/525 x 16" Crossply
tyres. Avon Tourist are recommended for
road-holding and comfort. But I have found Waymaster Premium tyres to be adequate. |
Longstone Tyres |
Weatherstrip |
I made my own weatherstrip
for the windows using stainless steel strip
designed for lead flashing repairs and
Berisfords black velvet ribbon |
Roofinglines
Amazon |
Window felt channel |
I measured the original and
found it to be 1/4" thick. I had to trim the new
stuff to the correct width |
Woolies Trim |
Window Seals |
I carefully repaired the
rear seal with black silicone. The front was
sealed with 'Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack
Cure' |
Captain
Tolley |
Windscreen wiper spindle
grommets |
Windscreen wiper spindle
grommets part number 538.02 prevent water leaks
down the wiper spindles. The same supplier may
also supply wiper blades |
Paul Beck Vintage Supplies |