Building the kite - getting started

I used 6oz ripstop (from freespirit kites) @ £2.50 per meter off the roll (140cms wide). You'll need about 3-4 times the area of the kite. So for the 8m kite I used 24m off the roll (some oddments left for repairs!).


This kite also used about 800m of polyester thread (buy 500m reels!) The first task once you are happy with the design is to print out all the templates onto LOTS of sheets of paper. Use the registration marks to align the sheets and stick them together with clear tape. Make sure the seam allowance is set to match the foot of your sewing machine (normally 7mm for domestic machines)

Decide on the colour scheme and lay out the cloth on a heat proof surface. Flatten the tip of a soldering iron and cut around the templates. This is reasonably easy and fast with a little practice and wont damage the templates (you'll need 2 of each part). I cut both at the same time turning the template over for the second. The cloth will tend to stick to the edges of the paper - you'll end up with one on each side of the paper. It is easy to separate the cloth from the paper but much harder to separate the cloth from itself if you cut two on the same side of the template. You need to mark the bridle points and vent position, and general orientation (I marked Trailing Edge and Tip on each) BEFORE removing from the template...

Assembly

The foilmaker manual outlines assembly, basically start from the left wingtip... I reenforced the vent with 75kg sheathed dyneema bridle line on the outside. Then fold over and hem the edge.

right: 8m version 2 cells done.

left: 2m version adding a rib.

below: hem the rib vent first.

Double check the orientation of each part - sewing is faster than unpicking :)

Sew the lower skin to the rib inserting bridle loops as you go then sew the upper skin. From this point on every cell is added by sewing the lower skin to the previous lower skin (new piece on bottom), then the same for the upper skins (new piece on top). Now the internal rib can be added, first to the lower (on top of existing seam) then the upper skin (on bottom of existing seam). Always start the seam at the vent and work towards the tip. It is very satisfying to see the kite grow with each new panel.

Once the very last cell is reached you will need to add the last set of cell skins and scrunch up (twist) all your hard work, lead it back towards the trailing edge and sew in the very last rib (the last cell is inside out at this point) then turn it the right way round through the trailing edge like a sock.

Finished!

Not quite - it won't fly without a bridle! The bridle holds the wing into its airfoil shape and clearly accuracy is critical. I used 75Kg dyneema. No pictures in this section because bridle lines do not show up on camera... I made the primary bridles in pairs so that adjacent cells share one length of line with a loop not-quite-in-the-middle to attach to the secondary bridle (where the main lines are attached). The method I used was to put a small nail into a long length of wood and fix a tape measure alongside. Generously measure the first bridle line (according to the table printed by foilmaker) and tie an overhand knot in the doubled line (2-3cm but not critical) and hook over the nail. Measure both lines accurately, mark with a laundry marker or similar and cut leaving some spare - see later. To quickly and accurately set the bridle lines I figured out how much bridle line is used by a figure of eight stopper knot plus bridle knot, this turned out to be 24mm. I made my bridle loops 24mm+7mm for the seam * 2 (to produce a loop!) ie each loop is a 62mm length of double thickness ripstop lined up when inserted in the seam with the edge of the seams inside the kite. This all has the advantage that I can measure the actual lengths of bridle specified by foilmaker, mark with a permanent marker. Tie the figure of eight ensuring the mark is at the cernter of the knot as it is tightened. Then the bridle knot can be used to secure to the bridle loops and it will tighten and slip easily until the stopper knot is reached. The total length from underside of kite to end of loop at the other end of the bridle line will be very accurate. Note that a bridle knot without a stopper knot will not hold in dyneema or similar low strech line. Do not use cheap polyester line it will stretch too much. The first kite I made had a slight distotrion because I ignored the length of the bridle loops, this would be Ok on a flat kite but (obviously?) changes the geometry of a kite with fronal curve.

On to testing...

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Last updated 28 April 2002 by nns@aber.ac.uk